Beyond lies the battlefield: an ode to Sree Kanteerava Stadium

AFTER THE PRACTICE SESSION, a sweaty but cheerful Luciano Sabrosa took off his shoes and socks and walked a few paces on the lush green natural turf. When Sanjay Sen walked up to him, he smiled,

"It feels good walking on this grass."

Sanjay Sen agreed,

"It's brilliant. Better than last year."

Luciano swung his lace-tied shoes over his shoulder and said,

"But the best ground in India is Guwahati. It's amazing."

Again, the coach nodded,

"That's why I asked them to have our AFC Cup group stage home games over there. It's just three games, and we'll have a good chance."

Luciano proceeded to walk a few more paces, pressing down on every step, letting his toes dig deep into the grass. Ahead of him lay the blue and white stands of Bengaluru's Sree Kanteerava Stadium; hooded by their distinct yet unassuming roofs whose distinct yet unassuming wavy design alluded to a vast, unrestful sea.

The Bengaluru FC team does not usually practice here. Ashley Westwood prefers the old Bengaluru Football Stadium, despite its artificial turf differing significantly from Kanteerava's grass. But it is the Kanteerava that has been BFC's home ground since the last season. And in its short stint as a venue for the nation's top division league as well as the national team, it has become one of the most illustrious destinations in Indian football; way more so than the Guwahati. And it has to do with what has happened here on the pitch as well as around it.

3 goals, 3 points! What a game to start with at home! Thanks everyone for the help with banners! #BFCvLAJ pic.twitter.com/OfFXJHm54M

— WestBlockBlues (@WestBlockBlues) January 24, 2016

While right now it lay vast and empty in front of Luciano, 258 days ago on a rainy evening it was the centre of the world for a lot of people. The West Block A, the traditional den of the most loyal of home fans, was packed to the brink. Facing them off on the opposite side, in the East Lower B Block, were Mohun Bagan fans, most of whom had travelled there from various parts of the country for that occasion. The crowd pressure was so high that the North Stand had to be opened up to accomodate the swelling number of fans. 

#lookback31stMay #EbarAbar #JoyMB
East Lower B is getting filled by Mariners. Stage is set fr an meomable evening pic.twitter.com/oiKgS4d86Q

— Mariners@Bangalore (@MBbengaluru) February 8, 2016

The game that followed has gone down to the annuls of Indian football history. Bengaluru FC, who needed a win to clinch the I-League title, got a lead in the first half. Bagan, needing a draw to claim the championship, got even with a few minutes to spare. As the rain kept pouring, the Kanteerava Stadium saw more than a decade of pent-up feelings come pouring out of Mohun Bagan fans. They danced on the stands and out on the streets. All inhibitions were forgotten as tears flowed freely from every face. A couple of over-enthusiastic fans jumped the fence, and one of them fell awkwardly and broke his leg. It was Bagan coach Sanjay Sen who rescued him, literally lifting him on his own shoulders and carrying him to the ambulance. There were fans celebrating on the stadium's premises till late night, and others followed the team bus to the team hotel where the party continued for hours.

The heartbroken home fans, though, set an example of their own by chanting and clapping to appreciate the efforts of their team despite losing the league title after coming so close. And when the new season began with the ISL-induced long gap that forced their beloved club out of action, they extended their resolute support to another team that really needed their backing.

In the absence of league football, the Kanteerava Stadium became the epicenter of the national team's journey in the World Cup Qualifiers. And despite losing game after game, the loyalty of the fans of Bengaluru for Constantine's boys remained rock-solid. Here, they fought hard but suffered defeats against Oman and Iran. But the West Block A was always pushing them on, cheering for them throughout the 90 minutes. And each time, before retiring to the the dressing room, the Blue Tigers heard a loud chorus of encouragement from the West Block Blues, who sang "Hum Honge Kaamayaab Ek Din" in unison. The fan movement that began around a club had now come to symbolize the football fans across the country. And suddenly, Kanteerava had become the most important arena in Indian football.

All this came to a head on another rainy night in November, when India took on Guam in a bid to register their first ever victory in the World Cup Qualifiers. The fans had come especially prepared for this game. Along with the large banners of support, they had an additional surprise waiting for the national team. As the national anthem came to a close, everyone in the West Block A threw a handful of colours from a pitcher assigned to their seat. In a perfectly timed magical moment, a cloud appeared over the block, vividly displaying the three colours of the national flag. 

Jayaa He! #INDvGUM #indianfootball pic.twitter.com/FffYj44LqY

— Gaurav Sarma (@GrvGhy) November 16, 2015

In the hard-fought game that followed, India tasted their first win in months thanks to a brilliant goal by Robin Singh. The Kanteerava Stadium, which had long thirsted for a victory like this, finally got its wish. But it was the way the regulars of this arena had acted with graceful belief and defiance in the face of defeat that set it apart from others in India.

#IndvGum Biggest Banner in Asian Football by none other than West Block Blues.#Bangalorefc #backtheblues pic.twitter.com/ndMbucjKwh

— Klopped (@SaiSamarth1) November 12, 2015

A bit more than three months have passed since that day. And today, the Kanteerava Stadium is gearing up once again for yet another special night. It's the first time Bengaluru FC are coming face to face again with Mohun Bagan since that fateful night on 31st May. Although both coaches were eager to play the game down as just another match, the ground is simmering with whispers of grudge, revenge or "finishing the job". Although few are ready to divulge details, both sets of fans claim to have a surprise in store; something that has taken weeks of hard work to materialise.

Tonight, as the two strongest teams in the I-League walk out to face each other, the Kanteerava Stadium will also witness a duel between two of the most passionate and prominent sets of football fans, voiced through chants and spelled out in specially crafted banners. It will mark yet another thrilling chapter in the rivalry between Bengaluru FC and Mohun Bagan.

So in a few hours of time, the Kanteerava premises will once again fill up with the buzz of numerous young, excited voices. There will be bouts of songs and chants as the sun goes down and the hour of kick-off draws nearer. Groups of fans will parade in front of their rivals, waving banners, exchanging words. The arena itself will stand still as ever, its wide, welcoming gates open to anyone with a love for football. 

But as the fans march in to breathe its concrete stands to life, they will be reminded of what the Kanteerava Stadium stands for, and has been through, by the signs at the entrance solemnly proclaiming in bold letters: "Beyond Lies the Battlefield."